Simmons Bilt Clothing Company Ltd

Simmons Bilt & Our Leathers

The most important raw material is of course the leather used to create a Simmons Bilt. Leather is a completely natural product with many properties that make it ideal for protecting our skin, it has high tensile strength and resistance to tear, good heat insulation, thermostatic properties making it warm in winter, cool in summer, resistance to abrasion, the list goes on, no wonder it has been used for centuries to protect us from the elements.

Simmons Bilt selects only the highest quality hides available, we look for authenticity, durability, strength, unique characteristics, leather that will achieve a rich patina with age and mould to the wearers shape over time. We also prefer leathers that have been created in tanneries that have history, traditions and craftsmanship that have been handed down over generations, we usually find these tanneries tend to produce a far superior leather product, exceptional high quality and full of character.

Clayton Chrome Tan Horsehide

Shinki Hikaku Horsehide

From the world famous Shinki tannery in Japan we have the Shinki Hikaku Horsehide.

Shinki horsehide is a full grain vegetable tanned leather finished using oils and iron, drum dyed with a spray finish.

An exceptional leather with a soft hand and approximately 1.2mm in thickness.

Available in Black – Red/Brown and Chocolate.

Clayton of Chesterfield

Simmons Bilt Clothing Company are proud to announce their association the guys at Joseph Clayton & Sons. A UK tannery established in 1840 and recognised experts within the tanning industry we have been working with them to develop some exceptional veg tanned horsehide leathers to compliment the leathers we currently stock.

The quality of these UK produced horsehides are fantastic, around 1-1.2mm in thickness with a softer hand, perfect for those who are looking for a lighter weight jacket with uncompromising high quality that we insist on at the Simmons Bilt Clothing Company.

Clayton horsehide leathers are fully vegetable tanned using a combination of various plant based tannins extracted from predominantly tree barks sourced from sustainable forestation. The tannin process takes approximately 4 months with the tannage itself taking the bulk of this time and a pit tanning process of 10 weeks.The subsequent processes to colour, oil and work the leather to the correct thickness and finish is a further 4 weeks. Part of the process is a hot drum stuffing whereby the leather is impregnated with natural oils and fats to give softening properties but this also has benefits in tensile strength and water repellence.

Final 'wet' operations are to strip back the surface oils by washing with soaps to give a dry surface feel that can be further finished to give uniform colour and appearance.

Leathers (2), (3), (4) are semi-aniline with the vintage leather (1) being fully aniline.

We look forward to working with Claytons to further develop more great UK produced leathers.

  • 1) Clayton Veg tanned vintage horsehide brown. Thickness: 1-1.2mm
    (Also available in black)
  • 2) Clayton Veg tanned horsehide black. Thickness: 1-1.2mm
  • 3) Clayton Veg tanned horsehide burgundy. Thickness: 1-1.2mm
  • 4) Clayton Veg tanned horsehide dark brown. Thickness: 1-1.2mm
 

Blattwerk® Horsehide Leather

The Environmental award winning Blattwerk® horsehide leather is produced using olive leaves as a bi product of the olive harvest, this new tanning agent is not only 100% sustainable but also gently refines the leather giving it a natural warm velvety feel.

The techniques used to produce Blattwerk® horsehide is a mild process and leaves a subtle olive fragrance, authenticating the origins of its biological origins, no use of acid sulphur or salts are required to produce Blattwerk®, it is pure, natural and sustainable and also contributes to the local economy where the olives are grown.

Blattwerk® Horsehide is treated with genuine Beeswax to protect it from dirt and environmental influences.

Thickness: 12-1.4mm Colours: Black/Dark Brown/Oak/Mahogany/Peat

Horween Chromexcel Steerhide

The world famous Horween leather company, founded in 1905, and been producing leather ever since, the traditional way, by hand. Their leather is exceptional and Chromexcel steer hide is without doubt the best we have seen.

Chromexcel steer hide is the original pull up leather, using time honoured techniques and formulas that were developed nearly 100 years ago. This leather is still produced in the United States using a bark retannage from a proprietary recipe, and then genuinely with a secret blend of natural oils and greases. Chromexcel is characterized by a rich pull-up in full aniline, hand rubbed finishes.

This superior leather is for the more discerning leather jacket wearer. Simmons Bilt offers the Horween Chromexcel Steer in 1.4mm (3oz), made from premium North American cowhide, comfortable, durable and the more it is worn achieves an authentic vintage look and feel.

Horween Warhawk
Front QuarterChrome Tanned Horsehide Brown

Our "Warhawk" Front quarter chrome tanned horsehide is produced using a premium grade hide. Horween treat it with the same chrome based tannage they use with all their chrome leathers, they then apply their unique formulas using the traditional methods Horween are renowned for.

Warhawk is a 3oz full grain leather, finished using aniline dyes and waxes to highlight the natural character and grain of the leather. We are extremely happy to have worked with the guys at Horween to develop this tremendous Warhawk horsehide.

 

Horween Warhawk
Front Quarter Chrome Tanned Horsehide Black

Our "Warhawk" Front quarter chrome tanned horsehide is produced using a premium grade hide. Horween treat it with the same chrome based tannage they use with all their chrome leathers, they then apply their unique formulas using the traditional methods Horween are renowned for.

Warhawk is a 3oz full grain leather, finished using aniline dyes and waxes to highlight the natural character and grain of the leather. We are extremely happy to have worked with the guys at Horween to develop this tremendous Warhawk horsehide.

 

Horween Warhawk
Front Quarter Chrome Tanned Horsehide Burgundy

Our "Warhawk" Front quarter chrome tanned horsehide is produced using a premium grade hide. Horween treat it with the same chrome based tannage they use with all their chrome leathers, they then apply their unique formulas using the traditional methods Horween are renowned for.

Warhawk is a 3oz full grain leather, finished using aniline dyes and waxes to highlight the natural character and grain of the leather. We are extremely happy to have worked with the guys at Horween to develop this tremendous Warhawk horsehide.

 

Horween Chromexcel Bison

Tanned from Genuine American Bison.

For more than 100 years Horween Leather Company has been committed to producing the finest leather in the world.Genuine Bison is distinctly rugged and showcases the true uniqueness of a natural product. The expertise of skilled craftspeople and the leather tanned using the best possible materials yields a product that will improve with age and wear.

 

Horween Chromexcel Bison Brown

For more than 100 years Horween Leather Company has been committed to producing the finest leather in the world.Genuine Bison is distinctly rugged and showcases the true uniqueness of a natural product. The expertise of skilled craftspeople and the leather tanned using the best possible materials yields a product that will improve with age and wear.

 

Crazy Steer

As the name suggests, this leather is not for the faint hearted, hardcore Simmons Bilt wearers only.

Produced in Brazil from Brazilian cow hide, this tannery also produces for the likes of Clarkes and Timberland.This is a thick cowhide that only the dedicated and insane would enjoy breaking in, but once that process has been achieved, it will fit like a glove.

Smooth Steerhide

This leather has a smooth appearance and a nice medium weight.

Tanned in Korea from North American hides which are generally regarded as the highest quality hides available worldwide. Smooth Steerhide is an aniline leather, very little finishing in terms of spray or printing, so requires the very best raw material to work from.

Red Sheepskin

All sheepskin is produced from lamb skin and is renowned for its unique properties, comfortable, resilient, anti flam, durable and its ability to absorb moisture.

The sheepskin we use is produced from North American Lambskin, which is the only lambskin giving you 25mm wool length. This shearling sheepskin is seriously high quality and hard wearing, not to be confused with any cheap alternatives.

Sheepskin Seal

All sheepskin is produced from lamb skin and is renowned for its unique properties, comfortable, resilient, anti flam, durable and its ability to absorb moisture.

The sheepskin we use is produced from North American Lambskin, which is the only lambskin giving you 25mm wool length. This shearling sheepskin is seriously high quality and hard wearing, not to be confused with any cheap alternatives.

Goatskin

Our Goatskin is of the highest quality, medium weight and has a pebbly texture to it. The hides are imported and traditionally finished in England.

The leather is vegetable tanned and then given a chrome re-tannage to give it durability and softness. A natural aniline glaze is finally applied which results in a great feel and character to the end product. A beautiful leather suitable for many styles but especially suited to our military jackets. Available in Russet, Black & Seal Brown.

Jerky Horse

Most original civilian and military jackets from the 1920’s -1950’s were constructed from horsehide due to the abundance of the raw material and its unique characteristics. However, the availability of the raw hides is now limited.

This leather produced from European Horse hides and is full of its own unique characteristics. A special tannage is applied to create a vintage authentic look, and the finishing process applied gives it a natural glazed appearance. This is a great medium weight leather that will achieve a rich patina the more it is worn. Available in Black & Seal Brown.

Rustler Steer

A beautiful and classic full aniline pull up hide that will develop its own unique patina with time and wear.

A full natural grain leather infused with oils and waxes that will ensure a superb pull up with a smooth feel. Rustler, due to its inherent properties may have natural scarring and characteristics.

Thickness: 0.9-1.2mm